I’ve been having a stint of my ongoing battle with time. There’s a song that goes “the years go by fast and the days go so slow.” It definitely feels that way sometimes. You feel like you have this enormous amount time, sometimes so much time you’re trying to hurry it up, and then it’s just gone. The fact that we’re leaving Canada in a week and half seems bizarre. I thought we just got here. Anyways, here are some shots of us and some friends living in the moment.
I just took the longest time off of climbing that I have in the past three years. I think it ended up totaling at something a little over a month, which I know gets a bunch of ooohh’s and aaawww’s from the regular populace. But for me it was a really long time and it was weird, it was different, and it was also kinda nice. The process of getting back in shape is not so nice. The first days go fine. You decide to bury all ego, and you really don’t care when you get spit off a route you figured you’d always be able to warm up on even flu ridden and maimed. It’s really more like two weeks in that sucking really starts to take its toll. You don’t completely suck anymore, but you’re not where you used to be, and well you’re sick of burying your ego. Luckily the day that follows that day is the day when all the effort you put into sucking on a route the day before has actually warranted you enough strength to fight your way to another rad route, which up until you clipped the chains you thought you had no chance in hell of doing. And then you remember why you’re trying to get better at this in the first place. And it’s really nice.
Here are some pics that don’t really do justice to Horne Lake, the place we’ve been climbing at on Vancouver Island. Tufas and steep, juggy climbing have been perfect for finger injury recuperation. We have a dope set up here, thanks to Steve Townsend, and will probably stick around for a few more days before heading to Squamish.
yes these are some of my closest friends. the beginning and end are my favorite.
Going on the road does something to a person. Two things really, there’s a sense of freedom with the open road the endless choice of destinations. But then there’s this odd slavery to the all options. Sometimes there seems to be too many, and choosing the right one seems impossible. I feel like an over privilege college kid who can’t make a choice because really they don’t have to survive. They have every possibility floating in front of them. It’s like I need a smack in the face to see that making a decision it’s really the beginning or ending or anything, it’s just part of the whole shibang.
This last week has been a harsh jolt of reality, and serious blow to face that makes me feel like any stupid indecision I’ve had over the last few days is nothing short of utter stupidity. Two climber’s bodies were found in an avalanche in China and third is believed to have perished. I knew Micah Dash pretty well and can’t quite grasp the idea that he’s just not here anymore. It’s a strange feeling, one that I can only imagine is indescribable to these climber’s closest friends and family. It’s hard with climbers because these people were doing what loved and taking such risk knowing the possible consequences. They really lived life in a different sense than those who always stay in their comfort zones. This kind of life is what they thrived on. I think we can only keep living our lives making our choices and living them out in the fullest just the way these guys did. There’s no room for regret, and life is too short to not soak up every minute of it. Johnny Copp, Micah Dash, and Wade Johnson you will be terribly missed and never forgotten. RIP.
I’ve decided I’m pretty much powerless in this city. I can’t help but revert back to my old ways. Drinking too much, no exercise, not eating enough fruit. I’m pretty sure I’ve only eaten Indian food and muffins since I got here three days ago. Normally my body would refuse such abrasive contaminations, but here it seems to find a way to absorb them, even the worst ones, and keep going. In fact I run on a higher energy level than in my normal healthy existence. I blame it on the super intense energy field that surrounds this city. It’s the one that everyone feels, whether in a good or bad way, when they are in the city. When my bus first pulled up to Port Authority my body recoiled. I remember thinking “Oh thank god I don’t live here anymore, I just couldn’t.” By the time my feet hit the sidewalk, my legs walked me directly to street stand and my fingers paid too much for a pack of cigarettes, I decided I actually could live here, even if it killed me.
What can you say about a country filled with tropical plants, jaguars, and magical crystals? It’s a place where you never have to take off your swimsuit, everyone speaks three languages including perfect English that’s twinged with an envied Caribbean flare. Yah man. Here the Belikin beer and multiple flavors of rum flow like the purified water. For the last week I was in Belize on a photo shoot for Teva sandals. I pretty much never tire of such trips that are all inclusive, totally paid for and consist of activities they try to convince you are work like going rappelling, hiking and tubing. Um, yes, more please. The crew was exceptional, which is the clutch for these kinds of things. Though I can’t imagine many sane people who could muster a fit under such circumstances. They would have been voted off the trip within the first few days anyways.
I brought my climbing shoes wishfully thinking some rock would pop up. In fact I saw multiple gapping caves stacked with stalactites and featured limestone faces. Some caves tunneled for close to a mile and the features where nothing short of Kalimnos’ dangling refrigerator sized stones. Of course there were no bolts and the humid conditions would only be the first hurtle in cleaning and opening areas there, (think giant, hairy tarantulas in every crack and crevasse). Many of the caves were filled with ancient Mayan artifacts and guided by locals for the touristas. But considering I never signed a single waiver before being lowered over a cliff or whipping down wire cables, the regulation thing may not be a huge issue with bolting cliffs.
In general the country had less of a tourist vibe than I thought it may have. Perhaps the resorts were slower than usual, but most areas were generally mellow and our presence was rarely gawked at. The crescendo of my trip was the nearly deserted island we spent a night on. Littered with colorful palms trees and surrounded with crystal clear waters, the tiny island was hour and half off the coast by boat quite, quaint and enchanting. In fact I’m only slightly embarrassed that I was drug kicking and screaming from the paradise hub, it was that fabulous. Ugh, on my list for honeymoon spots for sure.
Now I’m shaking the Belize buzz from my brain and returning to the outer realm of my “reality”, which luckily isn’t too harsh and allows for relatively simple shift from crippling beach intoxication. On the itinerary: Nashville till Thurs, then NY for five days, back to Vegas, shuttle to Hurricane, pack away the life, then back on the road. Joe and I haven’t verbally decided on the first climbing destination area, I figure there will be plenty of time in the van on the way there for that.
Tomorrow I fly to Belize for a modeling gig. These opportunities are pretty few and far between, so I try to jump on them when the chance arises. I’m flying out of Nashville since I had already planned on being here for my mom’s graduation. That’s right, my mom’s graduation! She went back to school later in life and has kicked ass in academia. She graduated with a freaking 3.99 GPA!!! Nuts! She swears it’s because she didn’t have a blooming social life to battle, but I’m pretty positive she’s a genius!
When I’m in Nashville my focus revolves around family and friends. That juggle usually takes up most of my time and attention., but this time I’ve actually been enjoying the climate and scenery more than usual. It’s more incredible because it has nothing to do with climbing. In fact it’s definitely my lack of climbing that has led me to enjoy the thick air and rainforestesque coating that has blanketed my old stomping ground. There’s green for miles with overflowing lushness in every direction. My skin feels fresh and my hair curls at the ends. My desert dryness is being soaked in humid air that’s thick and warm as breath. When I can embrace the rain because I’m not obsessed with climbing I remember that I love it. I mean my parents are British; this drizzle is in my blood.
I’m going to Belize Bitches! 
Last night was my final night at the Hurricane house. The last two weeks my schedule has dramatically changed from a world of constant climbing to a more varied and elaborate routine.
Since I hurt my finger over two weeks ago I’ve attempted climbing twice, both times went better than I thought, but still my finger felt only 70% healed. I’ve done my best to embrace my rest. In reality it’s the optimal time for something like this to happen for a number of reasons. I just sent my project! We’re moving on from the area. For the next two weeks I’m doing some extensive traveling that is not based around climbing, that will take me to Nashville, Belize and then New York City. My once wavering psyched has completely been re-boosted and everyday I don’t climb I grow increasing pumped to do so. Plus I’ve been more motivated to follow up on some worthwhile job leads, like a personal trainer gig and some real time work with the daunting world of freelance writing. These are all great experiences and needed eye-openers for future happenings.
The last two days I dragged Lauren down to SLC with me where we went on a girl party rampage with some of my favorite ladies there. It was AMAZING@!! There’s something to be said for quality girl time, it heals the soul. I’m only saddened when I have to leave because our time is so brief. Kami, Cerre, Rosie and Lolo I love you guys!
Joe has been in Cali for the past five days doing some media work for Gregory. It’s been strange not having him around as we’re constantly together, almost to the extinct that we can even take each other for granted sometimes. Plus the these two weeks, this will by far be the most amount of time we’ve been apart and I’m already sad thinking about itL. We’ll meet back up in New York City for the EMS Soho store opening. Then we’ll fly back to Vegas to collect our things and head on the road for most of the summer. First stop Ten Sleep, Wy. Now I just have to get through these next six plane flights.
I’ve also had extra time to pull out the G-nizzer and get some lovely desert shots. I’m completely enamored with this place and one can bet if any of these job opportunities take shape I would seriously consider spending some real time here. It’s just breath taking and the scenery never gets old. Even these warmer days have not turned me off as the nights are incredibly comfy and watching the moonrise is my dinner entertainment every night. Goodbye desert I will miss you…
Joe and I both sent our long term projects this week! I did the my second 8a Resurrection, probably my hardest route yet, and Joe completed the FA of his half bolted, link-up The Re-Up, completing his third 9a. We’ve been in Hurricane for three months now and our time is quickly coming to a close. I would like to jump on at least one more hard route before I leave on the 15th, but I managed to strain some muscles in my hand on my final Resurrection attempt. It’s funny because I NEVER push it when it comes to tweaky fingers, ect. And my own going joke with myself is that sure I never get injured, but I never really get stronger either. So I guess I just had to go for it, and at least I got injured for the sake of doing something hard. Fuck it. I’m resting until Mon. then I’ll play it by ear. Until then it’s Yoga, biking, running, reading, writing and filming. Not so bad really. Oh yeah, and I’m going to Belize bitches!!!
Here are some Keith shots of Lauren and I from a few weeks ago at Joe’s Valley. That place is sick, if I didn’t work on my stupid ass project for so long I might have actually done some of the boulder problems pictured below.
Five Ten just sent me a batch of their new Stealth Paint. This stuff is great if you want to customize any of your climbing shoes with an extra patch of sticky rubber. If you find that you drag your toes a lot for added stability when you climb, or you use toe-hooks every time you’re in a roof, then you know how you can get the same hole in the same spot of your favorite climbing shoes. With the Stealth Paint you can work a light layer of the super sticky rubber right on your shoes’ problem area, giving you added stick for sending while protecting your kicks from wear and tear. For years I’ve seen Joe get the same hole over the knuckle of his big toe every month. He has used all kinds of cement glues, ect. to fix his shoes, the Stealth Paint is perfect for this!
The set up is pretty simple. Mix the appropriate amounts of glue and Five Ten Paint, which come together in the kit. It can be a little messy your first time, so do it over newspaper or something. Once mixed, begin working the paint over the desired area of the shoe. As far as I can tell the best way to apply the paint is to roll it again and again over the area like a pizza dough, not too thin but it sticks to its self and needs some working to be spread out. Let them sit over night and Ta-dah!
Beyond begin able to customize your climbing shoes, it’s nice to know that Five Ten is using its left over rubber for another purpose rather than just trashing it. Call it eco-friendly, economical, or good business since, it works! Here’s tutorial on how to use the paint.
Dave G doing up his five tenies.
