Archive for January, 2009

Home sunny home.

We’re settling in quite nicely into our new/old place. The funny part about our new room, is that for the entire two months that we lived here last year, neither Joe nor I had gone completely into the master bedroom. It was always someone else’s inhabitant and, well, we give people their space. Though we had been told of the joys of the sauna, and were even invited to join in them many times, our vision of the sticky-sweaty, steam room was never that inviting. Yeah we were idiots. When we arrived to Hurricane a few days ago, it was like entering a brand new room! Very exciting. It’s probably the biggest closet I’ve ever had. I feel I must have gotten some subliminal messages as I’ve had these recent random urges to have everything I own in one place. It’s more likely some level of sentimental breakdown stemming from being homeless for some time.
Beyond that we have climbed everyday so far. I’m extremely motivated again, with the good conditions, new projects and new areas I didn’t fully check out first time around. There’s something comforting about trying routes without the pressure of a time line and departure date. I can try projects or go to new cliffs. I don’t have to worry if I’m wasting time because I’m a local, and locals have all the time in the world, right? Though it’s great being a visitor, it’s nice to have a home.
Here are some shots around our house in Hurricane. We’re climbing in the cave just in our backyard. It’s pretty amazing to look up at climbing everyday while you’re having your coffee. No complaints here.

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Arriving at your final destination.

Hum, where to begin? In the past two weeks we’ve traveled 1,778 miles, visiting family and friends in about six different towns and cities. The facts of these trips are easy to record while the emotional part of this process is always little harder to explain. Though I feel blessed to have so many wonderful people in my life from all over the country, stepping into people’s lives just twice a year always falls short of the time I want to spend with the people I love. Playing catch up, while missing the daily ins and outs of the people most close to me just doesn’t cut it for little sentimental ole me. Of course there’s a bond I have with a person and that’s not going to waiver because of distance and time, but it doesn’t mean I’m not sad about it comes time leave some of our old residences and family. I know, super softy, blah!
Fortunately our last stop before Hurricane (and current home-base) was the tradeshow. This is a perfect place to stop feeling grossly sentimental. You see all these great people for four days straight over a drawn out periods measured in grueling hours. By day two your head is completely caked with a combo of SLC muck and tradeshow recycled air. I mean you like these people, but this? Too much. Point being, I’m feeling more at ease to head to our secluded spot in the desert, with it’s clear blue skies and climbing for a lifetime. I have tons of projects in mind though I’m trying to be realistic after my tick-list breakdown in the Red. But hey I’m a year older, I have a new president, and a new hair cut. Times are achangin’, it could be a great year ahead.

Since we’re camera less a the moment, I jacked some photos from Climbing.com of the rope comp. I was most siked to watch Emily and Paige duke it out. These ladies train together alot, and Paige is in full effect after some serious surgery last year. These ladies are super impressive climbers, so motivating!! Oh yeah the boys were great too, hucking themselves about.

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(All comp photos by John Evans)

Here’s some recylcledness from previous shows, woohoo.

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And this is where we are now… ah…

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MOTIVATION!

Here’s a cool sequence shot that Layla Mammi took of me last Feb. It’s my motivation right now. I look strong, tan, psyched and get this it’s sunny and perfect. Soon.

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you’ld like to know wouldn’t you.

One of my friends just reminded me about this video. Loves it. I still can’t really see why it was initially banned in the US. Fucking fascist.

Giving credit where credit is due vs. Paying dues.

Not much to report from the soggy south. During all this free time I’ve managed to read a ton and put together a really riveting ab workout. ooh.
I guess a topic that has been coming up recently is the discussion about super thin lines within the climbing industry. For example, issues like what is an sponsored athlete responsible for providing without compensation? What are some industry standards as far as payment for photo, video, writing and day-rates? What’s the difference between helping your friend out in a starter company and being paid fairly for a service giving? These lines really blur from situation to situation, ie beginner athletes hungry and needy for media attention, to climbers who are established and have an image that may help a company grow. A photographer that struggles to be paid adequately for their photographs due to contributers than take amateur shots and are willing to hand the off for free for more exposure, ect. In an industry that’s so small everyone is friends and favors are part of deal making, when is it ok to ask for more so that a standard is set and everyone doesn’t end up getting screwed? If some people don’t start demanding adequate compensation for the work they give to climbing how will anyone ever profit from this industry?
Speaking of giving credit where it’s due, click HERE for Marie Torres’ blog site. There’s something I really love about her photos, no se.

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Misja Pec!!

I want to go here too!!!


Natalija Gros from Jure Breceljnik on Vimeo.

dreamy…

I’m sitting here watching tons of climbing videos, looking at bundles of photos of dry sunny areas. I’ve been wanting to go to Hueco for awhile now. But that whole planning thing has really been the deal breaker with this one. It’s seems hard to figure out where we’ll be in a few days let alone a few months. But I really want to go!! I found these old photos from the last time Joe and I went there over four years ago! So Fun.

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Resolutions shpechs-alotions….

This past New Years, I was reminded that the so called benefits of technology are sometimes forced upon you, when infact they maybe that aren’t so grand. For instance my girlfriend Jill had totally awesome disposable camera. Besides is shear coolness do to retro qualities, Jill was also quick to point out how with this little snap shot there would be no “re-do’s” no “ooh-ooh, let me see that one”, you know the usual annoying precursors to your digital camera (at least in the presence of most girls). I guess my point is I didn’t bring my digital by mistake, though I think it was a sub-concious move so it wouldn’t be pummeled and cracked somewhere along the night. I’ll have to wait for that pesky “development” process before I relive any fond New Years moments.
Today I woke up with no voice after day four of a wavering cold that has left me sweaty and irritable. The irony is how last night I was super excited about my cold induced husky tone and was probably speaking more just because of it. Joe and I are planning one of our three day stints down towards Chat. The last few times we’ve planned on three dayers they haven’t worked out do to food poisoning, weather, and other varying sicknesses. Awesome! New Years Resolution: Make it three days ON THE ROAD.

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