Archive for February, 2008

back in the land of the home and the election

Ahh yes we arrived back to Salt Lake after four gruesome days traveling which were indeed exaggerated by fun new Morocco funk that not only left my stomach in immeasurable amounts of knots, but had me praying to the porcelain Gods with even greater severity. With the addition of Joe’s bum foot the two of us looked like a couple of fucking cripples. But the icing on the cake came as we sat in our hotel bed in Casablanca Morocco only to FINALLY look at our itinerary to discover that yes indeed we didn’t have photographic memories and our flight was leaving in exactly 20 minutes from the time we were laying lazing in our beds. Screwing up your flight is something I do often, ask anyone who’s know me VIA travel, but screwing your travels in a third world country was a pain-in-the-ass first. Luckily we got it sorted and still made it to our destination in time to endure another two days of treacherous travel.
So sure this trip left me stomach-ly disinclined when I see those little tray tables slap down, weak in my arms from literally only four days of climbing in over three weeks, weak in my knees when I even hear the word Couscous (don’t even joke), and feeling a little used, like yes, morocco got the best of me. So is it weird that I can still say I had a legitimate good time. I mean EMS did pay me for my troubles, and though I’m still feeling the effects a country like that can have on you, I can remember the first few days of awe and wonderment that got people talking about that joint in the first place.
1 MOROCCO- 0 COLETTE. Until next time.

moss.jpg
sunrise1.jpg
scout.jpg
prettydoor.jpg
tea.jpg
womanwalk.jpg

Here’s the deal Moroccan style…

The rain started day two of our trip to Fes, Morocco. The streets spewed unruly debris from all walks of life. The medina continued to bustle taunting lost travelers taking them for all they were worth on what I began to coin “a magic carpet ride.” The rain uncovered some harsh truths behind some of the beautiful exteriors of Fes and its markets. Like the craftsmanship of pottery, weaving, the street hustler has his own art at which he has perfected. To turn down a street vender in Fes is to insult he entire being. Imagine breaking up with your high school sweetheart every few booths. At first you feel bad you get drug into the ploy, you question yourself, and the situation. Then very much like learning to turn your head to beggars in New York City, you realize the greater picture, remove your self, and move on to your next booth/5 minute relationship. The interconnected community of Fes is much larger than we can imagine but it becomes a little smaller the longer we hang around. Fortunately, for my stomach most of all, we leave Fes today wondering how much of this culture we really did figure out. It seemed each time we thought we were getting one step ahead of the hustler, they had us right from the beginning. I suppose that’s just the arrogant American inside all of us here, the same one that brought us here in the first place, thinking we had anything special to offer this place it didn’t already have.
pottery.jpg joepots.jpg plates.jpg ruins.jpg merions.jpg 3birds.jpg henna.jpg hands.jpg dance.jpg dindin.jpg food.jpg socks.jpg

Finding Fes

17colors.jpgWe arrived in Morocco yesterday. The experience has been far beyond what any of us had imagined. The day before Joe and I were weary from travel, over the photos, and eager to get to climb. The house in Spain had its qualms, while the constant photos and lack of climbing were wearing on us. We had a delay in Valencia, Spain for an evening where our spirits were lifted by the immaculate room Beth had booked for us, full of long hot showers, American TV, and other amenities we were thirsty for. If we had only known what await us in Morocco, we wouldn’t have been nearly as impressed. A short flight, a lot of paper filling out, and four hour hectic train ride later we found ourselves in the busily city of Fes.
This labyrinth like city is sewn with thousands of small streets weaving through intricate tunnels full of bartering shop hustlers and beautifully gowned women. Luckily one of us, Ryan, had done his research and knew a few ins and outs of the city. How to barter, a few good places to eat, the customs Morocco is known for, and the likes. As we pulled into the center of Fes to a post office were we were supposed to meet our hotel manager confusion ensued. The taxi driver wasn’t happy with the fare and began arguing with our group about the price, meanwhile a small man snuck up and began throwing our luggage on a rickety cart and drove it away. If it hadn’t been for that “I’d trust you with the family jewels” smile our hotel manager Feta greeted us with we might have all called it quite right then and there. Feta hustled us down a dark narrow flight of stairs through a grungy corridor even some of the toughest might not roll down on a dark night. A few more turns that latest just long enough for us to even start questioning Feta angelic presence, we entered a homely doorway entrance. As we turned to the corner a view opened up to us that was nothing short of a fantasyland. A small courtyard filled with orange trees, mosaic walls and columns, and a brilliant flowing fountain at its center stood before us. Each of our rooms lay at different ends of the yard, each decorated elegantly. Needless to say we were flabbergasted. This place was far beyond our expectations.
Once we played Aladdin King of Arabia, we headed to the streets to check out the life lead by majority here in Morocco, which is still regarded as a third world country. The people here are kind and beautiful, but they work and hustle hard. I believe they say about 90% of the working labor is craftsmanship. So sewing, the making of the leather products, painting, carving, ect is the main work of this people. To walk through the streets and see people creating their goods the way they do in the places they do is astounding. My eyes never get tired from the sights; colors, shapes, patterns, textures cover every angle of your vision, every place you look–truly incredible. The hassling is pretty heavy for the girls. Luckily I have four years of the Bronx under my belt, though it’s still difficult. A head scarf makes you feel a little more comfortable, but in general it’s not a problem, you just grow a 3rd of the layer of skin like these girls have out here (man, they are tough). Ryan and Beth’s son has proven to be their golden ticket here. Moroccan’s love young children and it makes bargaining, meeting people, ect that much easier. Plus he works as a catcalling shield as well!
Today we got a guide, which is recommended to make the most of your time in a place where a wrong turn can turn into a twelve-hour tour of wrong turns. We saw where the oldest tannery, where the camel, goat and sheep skin is dyed before being made into purses, jackets, shoes, ect. We also visiting the co-op were the famous Moroccan rugs are hand sewn. I sat with the girls and saw the knots they make, the speed of their fingers, the toughness of their skin. And though I know I still only have the tiniest inclination of what goes on through their heads, I believe after traveling to places outside of your mind you have a better understanding of what is going through yours. Oh yeah, and right now I could give two shits about climbing, that’s how good it is.

1bed.jpg 2hottel.jpg 3travel.jpg 5moroco.jpg 6joe.jpg 7door.jpg 7fountain.jpg8joebed.jpg 9stuff.jpg 10street.jpg 11tannery.jpg 13bags.jpg 14kids.jpg 16wall.jpg 18hands.jpg

Venga Africa!!!

Today is our last day in Mallorca. It’s crazy that two weeks can fly by so quickly, especially since the first days were so filled and chaotic that it seemed those days would last forever. Last night we had a farewell dinner in a nice restaurant with some traditional over-priced, low-end Spanish food. Don’t get me wrong, I think there is some good Spanish food somewhere in this country, but all I’ve managed to find are pastries and red wine. Oh yeah, the Paella kicks ass too.
It’s always funny how when a trip like this is coming to an end all of a sudden everyone seems as if they are going to miss it, even after the previous days of constant bitching and whining about the lack of homely comforts, schedule inconsistencies, ect. In the end we are all siked we had this unique opportunity to travel and work such a different kind of job. Getting the chance to meet cool people this way and hang out in this setting just doesn’t happen often. It’s like reverting back to a “summer camp” style living or even a “Real World Mallorca.”
Of course the journey for Joe, myself, and a few others from the crew, doesn’t end here. We head to Morocco tonight for another week. And as much as I miss my house (that doesn’t exactly exist) and my bed (that again isn’t really anywhere either), I am willing to gain a few more pastry pounds and loathe not climbing for a little longer in order to check out a country I might never have an opportunity to travel to again. My qualms about Morocco are probably similar to many westerners whose minds have been shaped (or maybe a better term is warped) by the recent happenings in the world. My Spanish friend Christian conformed my worries over dinner last night when he explained to Joe how he could easily trade me “for ten, no twelve camels even!” I suppose I will wrap my head scarf tight and work on not talking to back to Joe for a least a week. Hum this could be a long one.
1chicas.jpg 2cuarto.jpg 3spanishteacher.jpg 4tamami.jpg 5dandc.jpg 6sunset1.jpg 7aborido.jpg 9vino.jpg 10jojo.jpg 11lilguy.jpg 12drinks.jpg 14comida.jpg 15fight.jpg

Practicar, practicar, practicar…

Languages are funny. They are hard. They can cause a lot of freakin’ problems. Two of the peeps on our trip can’t speak very much English. Meanwhile almost half of our crew can’t speak a lick of Spanish. I’d even go as far to say that I am one of the expert speakers of the crew, which is pretty pathetic. Since being here I’ve tried to speak more Spanish than English hanging out with Daila and Christian (the Spanish speakers) the most. One day I’ll feel super psyched, getting my phrases right, busting out some tenses ect. Then bam!!! I wake up the very next day and instead of starting where I left off I feel like I did bunch of friggin’ whippets all night. I actually start regressing! On top of that, my English starts to suck too. I speak in this horrible broken English consisting of the vocabulary a held back first-grader would make fun of. I use these words in an attempt to get through to Daila and Christian, but then it starts to stick. I can’t even remember English words now and I’m speaking to Joe like English is his second language (ok guys, be nice!!!). Sense of humor, severity, all are lost, dare I say, in translation. But that’s ok, we Americans are a funny breed where we stand sheltered, never having to worry about the simple tasks like I do here. It’s nice to be out of your comfort zone. I suppose that’s why I love rock climbing in the first place. The successes may seem small, like having an easy trip to the store where you talked properly and actually understood the clerk lady. But the rewards are numerous, like beginning to understand another way of life, another way of thinking and believing. I hope everyone has the opportunity to enjoy such journeys in their life.
dailaclimbs.jpg doublyoga.jpg posedown.jpg4yogatoe.jpg5yoga.jpg 7tan.jpg8timtells.jpg9preswim.jpg10view.jpg11swimchics.jpg12coors.jpg13family.jpg14joei.jpg6timstuff.jpg

Off season

We have been in Mallorca for exactly one week now and it has been a journey. Not always a fun one, not always a bad one, but one non-the-less. The views are gorgeous and we spend all of our days outside exploring the most beautiful parts of this country. But we are also working every one of these days, from the moment we wake up, which is usually around 6:00am until the night falls, somewhere around 7:30 (unless you get lost for an hour without a headlamp like Annie, Tim and Johana). This “work” includes a lot of meandering, waiting, watching, carrying, and posing. At the end of the day we all sit at a diner table drink wine, eat bread, and watch a slideshow of our “work”, which consists of the incredible photos Tim manages to pop out every day. Though our house is beautiful it is owned by a shady Southern Californian and persist to be without lights and hot water for several days at a time. This sucks bad. I haven’t taken a shower in more days than I am happy to admit, considering I am here to highlight my appearance. Apparently Photoshop has a new updated version, because Tim doesn’t seem too concerned. Today after some hard days and much needed down time we were all awarded a “free day” and most of the cast took off the a sick cliff called Fragal. It was so nice to just chill and climb all day, though in some ways it almost made it harder by reminding us that some of the most amazing climbing in the world is right at our finger tips and that we are contracted out and therefore not aloud to fully enjoy it. I suppose it could be worse though. I really just wish Joe would understand that. For him this situation can only be compared to someone waving a bag of dope in front of a heroine addict for serveral days on end. Regardless, our crew is rad. We all get along so well and make any sucky situation work while making the cool situations even better. I’m constantly working on my Spanish and have noticed some progress already. Check the photos and please don’t feel sorry for me, no matter how much I bitch this place is fucking awesome, I just wish I was climbing.
view.jpg view22.jpg accar.jpg annieway.jpg img_0626.jpg chris.jpg climbgreen.jpg christian.jpg dogbite.jpg joecoview.jpg kayak.jpg sunrise.jpg threechicas.jpg vups.jpg

Mallorca holla!!!

Hola! Greetings from España! We are currently on day three of our EMS photoshoot here in stunning Mallorca. I have to say upon arrival and everyday after, I believe this place to be a climber’s paradise. With the ocean, cliffs, and beautiful vistas this island has so much climbing. From the treacherous yet mind-blowing deep water soling (yes we are doing it, even though the temps are pretty low), to the tufa filled sport routes this has it fucking all. We have been lucky everyday so far and we have been on locations where we can do a little climbing (and a lot of posed climbing) to get our fix. The very first day we did some deep water soloing, which is called psychobloc in Spanish (that sounds more like it to me). I think if the water wasn’t as cold I would have been less scared to fall because the ocean is pretty calm at the moment, but instead I over gripped and clutched my way through the easiest routes there; probably maxing out at 5.9. Joe pulled off a sick 12d (scary!!) while Chris Sharma and Daila Ojeda housed their basically local crag like the sick machos they are. The other peeps in our crew include Annie, a friend of mine I met working at backcountry before we both decided the lack of sunshine and movement plus an over load of internet surfing wasn’t the combo for us. She is also a kick-ass skier but snuck her way into the summer shoot cause she’s just so damn cute (and unemployed!). Also there is Christian who has been my constant Spanish teacher (thankfully joe doesn’t mind) he lives in Lleida in Spain is a rad climber and a hottie in his own right. The rest of the working crew I have met before. They are super chill and fun, making the hardest parts of this gig (waking up early, being super cold, risking your life while climbing 50 feet above freezing waters) not so tasking. Check out some photos and keep checking as I will update with more shots as much as possible.
Chao tio!

joecoe.jpg anniecoe.jpg street2.jpg climb2.jpg yoga2.jpg sun2.jpg roof2.jpg joecli2.jpg

Bitch pack roll out!

I recommended to any girl (or guy for that matter) that when life gets heavy do the best you can to get out with your girls and party your ass off until you can’t quite remember what you were bitching about in the first place. Nothing feels better than when you’re smoking a spliff with your mates and you look out into the night, take a deep sigh, and start on about the heaviness in your belly or the hollowness in your chest and your inability to explain any of it, just to have your best chica look back at you, broaden her brow, and asks you what the fuck your on about? Refreshing. That’s just the nicest way she can say stop with the bullshit, and fucking enjoy the task at hand. Which in my case was sitting in the sun basking in the best and only meditation I’m familiar with, climbing. We did it just about everyday in Moe’s Valley, the VRG, and other special desert cliffs. On rest days I hit these spectacular trails that were a mere a 5 minute drive from my friend Lauren’s house. And like some of the best runs I’ve experienced when you ran as far as you could and went to turn around the view was so rad (in this case it was filled snowy peaks hovering above red desert rock that all lay under the tips of red fingers that you could see poking out of Zion) it made you feel weightless all the way to end of your run. After days of sending (yes we all threw down on our projects¬; what!) we headed to Vegas to celebrate Lauren’s birthday and chill in the fairyland like hot springs found out by the Hover Dam. Don’t worry, for all those wondering why we went to Vegas for hot springs and hiking, I’ll let you know we ended the long night with Del Taco breakfast burritos and milkshakes; classic. Chillin’ with these ladies for the past week is the most fun I’ve had in while, I encourage others to try and let your inhabitations go, let life take over for a bit, and stop trying to control everything; as I know this is something I do often. Rolling deep in a bitch pack may be the best way for me to recover from months of indoor climbing and self induced suffocation, find yours.
p1290883.JPG p1290904.JPG p1290055.jpg
p1290936.JPG p1290958.jpg
p1290967.JPG p1290977.JPG p1300022.JPG p1300034.JPG p1300037.JPG p1300091.JPG
p2010088.jpg p2030097.jpg p1300182.JPG p1300156.JPG p1300191.JPG

Elephant

A couple of months ago i wrote small piece for Elephant Magazine. Check out the final product.

elephant.png

Time to chose…

So today is super tues! I have to say it’s been crazy hard for me to decided on which candidate to vote for. I really like Hillary and Barack. I was having such a battle one point I almost thought, “Just vote McCain then at least those other lunatics won’t get in”!! But that was a crazy lady thought!! Anyhow, I’ve made my decision, have you?
hbbig.png